Kalgoorlie - The Heart of Western Australia

In the predominately male population sports and gambling were the favoured activities. Most social life centred around the hotels and in the early 1900's Kalgoorlie had 44 hotels.... Prostitution flourished. 

Government Publication, Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie: "Our Golden Heritage", 1995

It was with much excitement that AustralianBeers.com visited the legendary Kalgoorlie town of outback Western Australia. 

Like Mount Isa in Queensland, much has been said about the drinking and other prowess of the men of Kal. Many stories have been told.

Myths also abound about the women of Kal: the barmaids (or skimpies as they are known), who do more than just serve beer, and the local whores said to be trucked in by the dozen for the big functions. 

Tales are also told of the language and culture of Kal. Of how it represents a slice of the 'old' Australia. How it is a town time forgot. 

Hannan Street last century	Hannan Street Today

It was with a lifetime of such impressions that we drove in on a sizzling summer day. Temperatures close to 40. Not really knowing what would be fact and what would be fiction. 

We were there, also, to be honest, with a little trepidation. Every Australian male loves to be an aussie. To drink hard. To swear. To be a bit rough around the edges. To live the ocker. 

But most of them occasionally scrub themselves up, put on a suit or a pair of slacks, and go to work. Or act pleasantly in front of their girlfriend's mother. 

We were a little scared that the men of Kal were actually living the legend. They were what they were. And if they didn't like the look of you, standing out like a sore thumb, speaking a little differently, dressed a little too well for their liking - well then, they might kill you or make you wish they would. 

Australia was, and is, a hard land.  With hard men. Especially in Kal. 

So with all these thoughts, we drove up Hannan Street - the main street of Kal, looking for a place to start drinking. To test the waters, so to speak. 

Our first impression was that the town was old, by Australian standards. And at least architecturally not much had changed since 1894 when the town was built.  A government publication, Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie "Our Golden Heritage" describes the town back then (and presumably what they consider to be their Golden Heritage):

In the predominately male population sports and gambling were the favoured activities. Most social life centred around the hotels and in the early 1900's Kalgoorlie had 44 hotels.... Prostitution flourished. 

As we drove slowly up the street, we viewed the locals as they went about their own daily routine. Men walked past, obviously blind - off their nut - as they strolled from one pub to the next.  We almost hit one man as he staggered across the intersection.  Thanks to our astuteness, he made it to the side of the road, where his wallet fell out. "Mate! Mate!". He turned around. "You've dropped your wallet!".  His head swivelled slowly as he considered our words. The penny dropped, and he clumsily retraced his steps and picked it up. He continued on to the side of our car. We considered winding up the window but he stuck his head in. 

"Thanks cobber", he whispered, before retracting himself and making a beeline for the closest watering hole. 

We had arrived. 

We continued driving at our tourist pace.  We saw several aboriginals holding what appeared to be aerosol cans and inhaling the fumes. The youngest, who made some effort to hide his can under his shirt, could have only been 10.  Others sat under trees in the middle of the road.  What chance did they have.

The least of Kalgoorlie's Attractions

Take a break from drinking like the author of this article did - Read why and how in his book Between Drinks: Escape the Routine, Take Control and Join the Clear Thinkers